{"id":7031,"date":"2019-08-09T03:17:27","date_gmt":"2019-08-09T09:17:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/?p=7031"},"modified":"2019-08-21T13:52:16","modified_gmt":"2019-08-21T19:52:16","slug":"cooking-in-tuscany-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/2019\/08\/09\/cooking-in-tuscany-3\/","title":{"rendered":"Cooking in Tuscany #3: Eight Cars and a Utility Truck"},"content":{"rendered":"

August 9, 2019<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

So far, my record for encountering vehicles on \u201cThe Road\u201d is eight cars and one (very large) utility truck (the kind with a cherry picker for getting to the tops of poles).\u00a0 This doesn\u2019t count the motorcycle that I waved around me on the same journey.\u00a0 Only once did I have to back up to enable both of us to get by.<\/p>\n

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This danger sign, recently placed on the road to Zia Fidalma’s house makes the already narrow road even more narrow.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The day after setting this record (August 5th) I nearly equaled it with another eight cars and a truck but the truck was smaller so it wasn\u2019t quite a match.\u00a0 On the 6th though, I was going downhill rather than uphill as I was on the 5th.\u00a0 In theory down is the easier direction to be going as the unspoken rule is that cars coming up are supposed to be the ones to go into reverse, if necessary, to pass.\u00a0 That hasn\u2019t always been my experience, however.<\/p>\n

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It may not look bad but this blind turn goes into another blind turn while the road is barely wider than a car. Nonetheless cars traverse this road at dramatic speed.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Passing cars on the main part of the road though, is child\u2019s play compared to incurring oncoming cars in the gauntlet, an experience that I knew was going to happen even as I dreaded it.\u00a0 I really didn\u2019t expect it to happen three times in one day as it did on the 7th!\u00a0 Though I was going downhill, I was the one to back-up on two of the three encounters.\u00a0 Not only does one need to negotiate the looming stone buildings in reverse.\u00a0 One must be aware that there are multiple outcroppings of pipes, walls, directional signs, and other structures that are tall enough to hit one\u2019s car but are not easily visible using any of the mirrors.\u00a0 The car I\u2019m driving doesn\u2019t have a rear-view camera which would be a major asset!<\/p>\n

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Zia Fidalma’s plum jam (Marmellata di Susine).<\/strong><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The main point of yesterday\u2019s jaunt into town was to go to the market in Fornoli, a market that is slightly bigger than the one in Bagni di Lucca and with a few different types of vendors.\u00a0 As we approached the market, Zia Fidalma ran into Elvira, a friend from decades ago.\u00a0 The two of them, along with Zia Ida chatted long enough that I walked the entire market before they said good-bye.<\/p>\n

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Zia Ida, left, Elvira, center, and Zia Fidalma.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We came back with cauliflower, white peaches, Saturnia peaches, la gentilina (a type of lettuce), Friggitelli (little peppers that look like shishito peppers), and finocchio.\u00a0 We stopped at the Coop near the market for a few other items then went to the Conad supermarket in Bagni di Lucca for even more items based on where Zia Fidalma wanted to get each item.<\/p>\n

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There’s a whole display at the Conad of salumi, including Stinco, Cotechino, and Zampone in ready-to-warm packages.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Coop had Jack Daniels!! I won\u2019t be bourbon-free after all!<\/p>\n

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Conad had cases of tomatoes for canning priced at less than 4 Euros!<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We got a late start on the 6th because I spent eleven hours in bed after being sleep deprived from the happenings at the piazza in Bagni di Lucca on the previous nights.\u00a0 That was mitigated somewhat by the fact that we had no water so we weren\u2019t spending time taking showers!\u00a0 Zia Fidalma was awake just as the water was ceasing its flow and she was able to fill up several large containers for essential uses.\u00a0 Other than that, we used bottled water for brushing our teeth and moist towelettes for basic cleansing.<\/p>\n

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Zia Fidalma slicing radicchio for pasta ‘sciutta.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As we were leaving, there were three men and a backhoe listlessly digging a hole in the road.\u00a0 None of us had much confidence that we would return to running water.<\/p>\n

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Zia Fidala’s Panzanella with tuna, capers, mozzarella and pickled vegetables.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Knowing that we were going to be out for the morning, we planned a lunch of Peperonata (which we had made previously), melon and Prosciutto (from the market), whole grain bread and, for dessert, Torta di Frutta.<\/p>\n

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A mini-food processor makes quick work of finely chopping vegetables for Osso Buco.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While in town, we made a stop at the pharmacy.\u00a0 I bought some medicine that the pharmacist neatly wrapped in beautiful paper.\u00a0 There was none of the clumsy bags, pages of warnings, and staples that accompany medication purchases in the States.\u00a0 There\u2019s such a sense of style to life in Italy that pervades everything.\u00a0 (You may remember my amazement over the ritual surrounding my first haircut<\/a> in Calabria earlier this year.)<\/p>\n

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The beautiful paper that the pharmacist used to artfully wrap my little box of medicine.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We were all very pleasantly surprised to find running water on our return along with a neatly patched hole in the road.\u00a0 Wine with lunch had a soporific effect and we all rested before reassembling in the kitchen to prepare dinner as well as to make Panzanella for the next day\u2019s lunch.<\/p>\n

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A neatly repaired hole in the road below which the break in the water main was repaired restoring water to the village of Benabbio.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Since I didn\u2019t have to drive down the road for the second evening in a row, I enjoyed some bourbon while we made dinner.\u00a0 First up, though, I made an antipasto of Galetta Croccante con Peperoncino (large crisp crackers with hot pepper) broken into pieces, goat cheese, plum jam (made the day before) and hot pepper oil.<\/p>\n

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Zia Fidalma’s Ragu bubbling on the stove.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dinner was a simple, but truly yummy, Pasta \u2018Sciutta (literally \u201cdry pasta\u201d), a general term used for pasta that is not in broth.\u00a0 The sauce consisted of saut\u00e9ed onions and Speck (smoked ham from far northern Italy), Radicchio, Gorgonzola Dolce and a bit of Grana Padana cheese.\u00a0 After a salad of lettuce and tomatoes, we had the ever-present Torta Di Frutta.\u00a0 The torta reminds me of the loaves and fishes, it seems to never end.\u00a0 Perhaps I\u2019m partially to blame as I have only had two slivers over the entire past week, with Zia Ida and Zia Fidalma picking up the slack in the dessert-eating department.<\/p>\n

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Pasta ‘Asciutta with a sauce of onion, Speck, Radicchio, Gorgonzola Dolce and Grana Padana.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The morning of August 7th we went to the \u201cbig\u201d Conad supermarket in Gallicano.\u00a0 In addition to a larger array of products due to the larger format of the store, they have local items from the Garfagnana that are not available at the store in Bagni di Lucca.\u00a0 I found the W-180 flour that I needed to make pasta.\u00a0 I also scored a bottle of Jack Daniels for \u20ac3 less than the price at the Co-op in Fornoli.<\/p>\n

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Fruit at the market in Fornoli.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the front entryway is a box of ever-changing vegetables: some from the garden, some from the open air markets, some from the supermarkets.\u00a0 This box becomes a source of inspiration when planning meals.\u00a0 We only occasionally have a specific purpose in mind when purchasing vegetables.\u00a0 We usually just buy what looks good.<\/p>\n

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The ever-changing box of veggies from which we take inspiration for our meals, coupled with deliveries from friends, family, and neighbors.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Zia Fidalma\u2019s Panzanella, which we had for lunch on our return from Gallicano, is pretty amazing, if not entirely traditional.\u00a0 But, hey, she\u2019s Tuscan so if she makes it, I\u2019m going to say it wins the seal of approval.\u00a0 In addition to the usual several-day-old bread, which in this case was from a rustic whole grain loaf, tomatoes, olive oil and wine vinegar, she added onions, tuna, capers, and matchsticks of pickled celery and carrot.\u00a0 Cubes of mozzarella were added at serving time.\u00a0 White peaches made a light dessert.<\/p>\n

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Zia Fidalma with a bowlful of bread cubes destined for Panzanella.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Just before lunch we started the Osso Buco that was planned for dinner.\u00a0 Mid-afternoon saw the preparation of Champignon al Funghetto (Champignon is used to refer to cultivated white mushrooms).\u00a0 The name, which literally means mushrooms mushroom-style, might seem strange until you realize that many things can be cooked \u201cmushroom-style\u201d (like eggplant, for example).\u00a0 Mushroom-style simply means saut\u00e9ed with herbs and (usually) garlic.<\/p>\n

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Veal Shanks starting their transformation into Osso Buco with an array of vegetables.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Zia started Ragu for later in the week, to be served with my fresh pasta.\u00a0 That meal hasn\u2019t been scheduled yet and it\u2019s possible the Ragu will get put in the freezer awaiting its appearance on the table.<\/p>\n

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Mushrooms early in the process of becoming “mushrooms mushroom-style.”<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As cocktail hour approached, I poured a very small glass of bourbon as I was planning on tackling the road and spending the night in my apartment.\u00a0 With two good nights of sleep behind me, I felt able to brave the sounds of the Piazza!<\/p>\n

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The road in front of Zia Fidalma’s house in Benabbio.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For dinner we had the Osso Buco (which was amazing), Champignon al Funghetto (that tasted more like mushrooms than any mushrooms I have ever had) and a salad.\u00a0 We forgot to saut\u00e9 the Friggitelli, however.\u00a0 The bottomless well of Torta di Frutta had ended with Zia\u2019s breakfast that morning so we had fruit for dessert.<\/p>\n

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Zia Fidalma’s Osso Buco.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The road was kind, only one \u201creverse\u201d and one screeching halt around a blind curve and I was home.\u00a0 The piazza was quiet for the night with little more than muffled voices from the pizzeria.\u00a0 The internet, however, lasted just about an hour.\u00a0 After putting the second load of laundry in the longest-wash-cycle-ever washing machine around 11:30 I headed to bed at midnight.<\/p>\n

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Champignon al Funghetto (mushrooms mushroom-style).<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

August 9, 2019 So far, my record for encountering vehicles on \u201cThe Road\u201d is eight cars and one (very large) utility truck (the kind with a cherry picker for getting to the tops of poles).\u00a0 This doesn\u2019t count the motorcycle that I waved around me on the same journey.\u00a0 Only once did I have to … Continue reading Cooking in Tuscany #3: Eight Cars and a Utility Truck<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7067,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","wpupg_custom_link":[],"wpupg_custom_link_behaviour":["default"],"wpupg_custom_link_nofollow":[],"wpupg_custom_image":[],"wpupg_custom_image_id":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[363],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7031","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-people-and-places"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7031","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7031"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7031\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7189,"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7031\/revisions\/7189"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7067"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7031"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7031"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7031"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}