{"id":6222,"date":"2019-01-25T16:15:36","date_gmt":"2019-01-25T23:15:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/?p=6222"},"modified":"2023-04-26T16:44:09","modified_gmt":"2023-04-26T23:44:09","slug":"calabria-dispatch-6","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/2019\/01\/25\/calabria-dispatch-6\/","title":{"rendered":"Calabria Dispatch #6: Beyond Satiety"},"content":{"rendered":"

January 25 , 2019<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

I haven\u2019t had the sensation of hunger in days.\u00a0 That doesn\u2019t mean I\u2019m not eating.\u00a0 Everything must be tasted.\u00a0 Raw ingredients are tasted before being used.\u00a0 Food being prepared is tasted frequently during preparation.\u00a0 The final product must be tasted before being served.\u00a0 Food prepared by one of the Chefs is always tasted (or sometimes actually eaten in larger quantities) because it\u2019s being prepared to demonstrate a particular dish or food product.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A granita shop in Taormina, Sicily<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Weight gain is the side effect.\u00a0 If one is eating when one is not hungry there is no alternative but to gain weight.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Chef Juan piping mascarpone cream into molds for individual tiramisu<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It\u2019s that sacrifice one makes to achieve a goal.\u00a0 In this instance, the goal is understanding and being able to prepare traditional Italian Regional Cuisine and then to be able to riff on that same cuisine to create new dishes.<\/p>\n

\"\"
White chocolate lace<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One really can\u2019t focus on the weight gain.\u00a0 It goes with the territory.\u00a0 Just like medical students, interns, and residents can\u2019t focus on the excessive caffeine consumption needed to counteract the effects of not getting enough sleep.\u00a0 It goes with the territory, or at least it used to.\u00a0 (Don\u2019t get me started about the negative educational consequences of substantially reduced work hours for medical professionals in training!\u00a0 The change was meant to address a perceived problem and created unintended consequences.)<\/p>\n

\"\"
Arancini bigger than a fist on the ferry to Messina, Sicily<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Yesterday we went to Sicily for the day, to see another part of Italy and to taste different food.\u00a0 We left the hotel at 6:00 AM.\u00a0 At 6:15 we were at Soverato Dolci for an Italian breakfast: coffee and pastry.\u00a0 Chef John recommended the Cornetti (croissants) because they were made in house which, he said, was often not the case.\u00a0 He told me I should have \u201cseveral.\u201d\u00a0 I heeded part of his advice and had a Cornetto, but just one.\u00a0 I chose a Cornetto ai Noci (with walnuts).\u00a0 I thought it might have ground walnuts on the inside but instead it had a luscious warm creamy walnut filling that started running down my chin.\u00a0 Someone else had a pistachio cornetto and it had the same type of filling.\u00a0 A doppio caff\u00e8 (double espresso) rounded out my breakfast.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Strawberry spumone with a hard glaze and white chocolate lace<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We were back on the bus at 6:45 bound for Reggio Calabria and the ferry to Sicily.\u00a0 The bus pulled onto the ferry at 9:55 AM.\u00a0 It was a short ride on a beautiful new ferry.\u00a0 We got off the bus and headed to the caf\u00e9 on the ferry.\u00a0 At 10:05 we were chowing down on Arancini the size of my fist.\u00a0 They probably provided enough calories for an entire day.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Another view of the granita shop in Taormina, Sicily<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We were back on the bus at 10:20 and at 10:30 the bus drove off the ferry in Messina.\u00a0 We headed for Taormina, reaching there at 11:15.\u00a0 There is also a train to Taormina.\u00a0 The train drives from Calabria right onto a special ferry (one with train tracks, of course) and drives off after reaching Sicily continuing on its way!\u00a0 One never gets off the train.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The main street in Taormina, Sicily<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a couple of group pictures in Taormina we were on our own until 12:50 (theoretically), at which time we were to meet for lunch.\u00a0 Seven of us headed for the Amphitheater.\u00a0 It was built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BCE and subsequently expanded by the Romans.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The amphitheater in Taormina was built by the Greeks and expanded by the Romans<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We headed back to our meeting place a little late but before we got there, we saw another part of our group sitting outside a bar with a round of Aperol Spritzes at 1:00 PM.\u00a0 Mariana, Chef Juan\u2019s wife, was with the group.\u00a0 Already late for lunch, Mariana managed to massage lunch plans and we all got a round of Aperol Spritzes before making it to the restaurant (some of us with Aperol Spritzes in styrofoam cups) at 1:30.\u00a0 Here we were, in one of the most heavily touristed (and therefore expensive) towns in Italy, a town that has been a tourist destination since Roman times, and an Aperol Spritz cost only \u20ac6.50!\u00a0 Bowls of nibbles came to the table free of charge.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Antipasto in Taormina<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lunch started with individual antipasto plates of three cured meats, three cheeses, caponata, fried eggplant, and olives.\u00a0 The first course was Pasta alla Norma.\u00a0 The second course consisted of veal rolls stuffed with prosciutto and cheese, rolled in bread crumbs and gently saut\u00e9ed.\u00a0 These were served with mashed potatoes.\u00a0 Desert was tiramisu and gelato.\u00a0 An amaro and coffee followed.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Pasta alla Norma in Taormina<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We rolled out of the restaurant at 3:30 and had another hour to explore the town before boarding the bus for the return trip.\u00a0 Siesta wasn\u2019t quite over, typically lasting from 1:00 to 4:00 (or 5:00 – hey, this is Southern Italy, after all!) so many of the shops were still closed.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Veal rolls stuffed with ham and cheese<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Taormina is known for ceramics and I wanted to purchase something.\u00a0 The one shop that I was able to get into had many items that were unpriced making it difficult to shop.\u00a0 As I was about to ask prices, I spied a platter that was priced at \u20ac1500.00.\u00a0 Based on this, I decided there was no need to ask pricing for items that, at best, would have been totally unnecessary impulse purchases.\u00a0 Besides, I suspect I\u2019ll head back to Sicily in the near future, at a time when I won\u2019t be bringing a steamer trunk full of kitchen equipment home with me!<\/p>\n

\"\"
Individual tiramisu coated with chocolate<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We were back on the bus at 4:30 heading for the port in Messina.\u00a0 Before reaching the ferry dock though, the bus made a stop.\u00a0 Juan disappeared and then reappeared with bags full of cannoli!!!\u00a0 It was the first food I\u2019ve refused since the program began.\u00a0 <\/span>Once on the ferry, nobody got off the bus except one smoker who needed his fix.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Cannoli from Sicily<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Back at the school, not one of us wanted dinner.\u00a0 We all headed to our rooms.\u00a0 Exams were scheduled to start the next day and 1\/3 of the class had to take a practical exam, the contents of which were not divulged.\u00a0 I was scheduled in the second group, with my exam a day later.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Chef Juan’s modern interpretation of tiramisu<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As you may recall, I promised in my last post to describe what we did in the Pastry Lab the day before we went to Sicily.\u00a0 Here\u2019s the rundown of what Chef Juan demonstrated:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Strawberry Coulis<\/li>\n
  2. Pan di Spagna (subsequently cut into Savoiardi)<\/li>\n
  3. Masa Chabon (chocolate coating)<\/li>\n
  4. Mascarpone Cream (for Tiramisu) starting with the preparation of P\u00e2te \u00e0 Bombe<\/li>\n
  5. Salsa al Caff\u00e8 (coffee sauce)<\/li>\n
  6. Tempered Chocolate<\/li>\n
  7. White Chocolate Lace<\/li>\n
  8. Tiramisu<\/li>\n
  9. Strawberry Spumone<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Chef John kept feeding us during the day we spent in the Pastry Lab with Chef Juan. \u00a0At 10:30 AM small plates of bagna cauda and a bread roll flavored with cuttlefish ink appeared.\u00a0 At 11:50 he sent in seared swordfish with caponata, capers, and a roasted black olive crumble.\u00a0 At 1:30 we got bollito di maiale with polenta and little cubes of aspic made from a chicken demi.\u00a0 There was to be one more dish arriving that somehow didn\u2019t.\u00a0 There were no complaints when it didn\u2019t arrive.<\/p>\n

    \"\"
    Chef John’s Penne Arrabiata<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    We finished in the Pastry Lab at 4:00 I managed to get in a good walk before pizza making (and the next round of eating) started at 6:00 PM.<\/p>\n

    \"\"
    Chef John’s Bollito with Polenta<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Thursday was the first of two exam days.\u00a0 It was, mercifully, a free day until 4:30 for those of us who were not scheduled for exams.\u00a0 At 4:30 we had a lecture by Dr. Bill Schindler<\/a>, an anthropologist and fascinating speaker.\u00a0 He spoke about our dietary history.\u00a0 He plans on being here for two more days.\u00a0 It will be very interesting to see what he presents us.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    January 25 , 2019 I haven\u2019t had the sensation of hunger in days.\u00a0 That doesn\u2019t mean I\u2019m not eating.\u00a0 Everything must be tasted.\u00a0 Raw ingredients are tasted before being used.\u00a0 Food being prepared is tasted frequently during preparation.\u00a0 The final product must be tasted before being served.\u00a0 Food prepared by one of the Chefs is … Continue reading Calabria Dispatch #6: Beyond Satiety<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6287,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","wpupg_custom_link":[],"wpupg_custom_link_behaviour":["default"],"wpupg_custom_link_nofollow":[],"wpupg_custom_image":[],"wpupg_custom_image_id":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[363],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6222","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-people-and-places"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6222","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6222"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6222\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7414,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6222\/revisions\/7414"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6287"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6222"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6222"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6222"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}