{"id":6423,"date":"2019-02-20T00:45:06","date_gmt":"2019-02-20T07:45:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/?p=6423"},"modified":"2023-04-26T17:26:07","modified_gmt":"2023-04-27T00:26:07","slug":"calabria-dispatch-11","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/2019\/02\/20\/calabria-dispatch-11\/","title":{"rendered":"Calabria Dispatch #11: If It Doesn\u2019t Taste Yummy It\u2019s Worthless"},"content":{"rendered":"

February 20, 2019<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

I am sitting in the servants\u2019 quarters as I write this.\u00a0 The servants\u2019 quarters of a palazzo in Matera.\u00a0 The Palazzo Gattini, in Piazza Duomo, is now a luxury hotel.\u00a0 Around the corner and down some stairs are the former servants\u2019 quarters, now turned into short-term rentals.\u00a0 Ours is in Dimora Santa Barbara hosted by a wonderful father-son duo, Angelo and Ivan.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Frank in the living room of our rental in Matera<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I couldn\u2019t be happier.\u00a0 The suite is massive; definitely bigger than my first house.\u00a0 It has a separate fully-equipped kitchen, a large salon set up as both a living and dining room, a bedroom that is up a flight of stairs and overlooks the living room, and a bathroom.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The kitchen of our rental in Matera<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The floors are marble and granite, the furnishings are antique, and the lighting is soft.\u00a0 It is also blissfully quiet.\u00a0 I could spend weeks, perhaps months, here but, unfortunately, it will only last two days.<\/p>\n

\"\"
China cabinet with view to kitchen<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Let me fill you in on what has happened since my last blog post.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A view of Matera<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The week of conserves and mixology ended on February 15th with what was billed as a \u201cPizza Party.\u201d\u00a0 Ha! It was not a party, it was a contest.\u00a0 At the end, everyone was hungry because every two students made one small pizza, half of which was eaten by the judges.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Cured salmon wrapped in a flexible bread spread with cream cheese and topped with caper berries at the Italian Culinary Institute<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We were randomly assigned to teams of two.\u00a0 Tommy Palmer and I were a team.\u00a0 The premise was that each team had to create a pizza from a basket of ingredients that would change from team to team using a maximum of five ingredients, not including the crust, and pair it with a creative cocktail using a maximum of five ingredients, not including garnishes, from a well-stocked bar.\u00a0 The clincher was that we would have 10 minutes to make and bake the pizza and create the cocktail after we were given our basket of ingredients!<\/p>\n

\"\"
A church in Serra San Bruno, part of our sightseeing excursion with Great Aunt Fidalma and cousins Massimo and Francesca from Tuscany<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Once the ground rules were laid out, each team was given time to discuss cocktails with our mixologist, Agelos.\u00a0 The conversation happened at the bar inside the school.\u00a0 When our turn came, Tommy and I each took a seat at a bar stool and Agelos stood behind the bar.\u00a0 He offered us each a shot.\u00a0 We accepted.\u00a0 He poured one for himself too.\u00a0 We talked about strategy for pairing cocktails with pizza and how to have a plan that could be finalized and executed within the allotted 10 minutes.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Fritters with tiny, tiny fish were the start of our lunch at La Cabana restaurant in Pietragrande<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tommy and I then went off to discuss how we were going to tackle the task, knowing what ingredients we had to work with at the bar but not knowing what we had to work with for the pizza.\u00a0 We also decided that Tommy would make the cocktail and I would make the pizza.<\/p>\n

\"\"
After plates of pasta, Frank and I shared this “salad” as our second course for the lunch at La Cabana restaurant<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We had a couple of free hours before we had to assemble at 5 to start the contest.\u00a0 About 4:45 my husband, Frank, arrived with Great Aunt Fidalma and cousins Massimo and Francesca from Tuscany.\u00a0 They had all met up at the airport in Lamezia and driven to the school together.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Great Aunt Fidalma, far right, enjoying conversation with Francesca and Frank at Al Fondaco<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Chef John saw that they were well-fed with house-cured meats, small sandwiches and pizza while we had our contest.<\/p>\n

Tommy and I had decided that our theme would be Southern Italian.\u00a0 That meant we would do a spicy pizza based on whatever spicy ingredients were available (it was unthinkable that there wouldn\u2019t be at least ONE spicy ingredient) and that our cocktail would have citrus for which Southern Italy is well known.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Al Fondaco’s beans and greens; one of many dishes that form the antipasto course<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We were introduced to our basket of ingredients by Chef John.\u00a0 We had Bomba Calabrese, pickled pepperoncini, thinly sliced scallions, pizza cheese, Pecorino Romano cheese, anchovies, and sgombro (mackerel) that had been delicately braised.\u00a0 We also learned that the two minutes Chef John took to explain our ingredients were deducted from our 10-minute allotment.\u00a0 We now had 8 minutes to make a pizza and a cocktail.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Stewed tripe is part of the antipasto course at Al Fondaco<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I was hoping for arugula and pepperoncino oil so that I could top the pizza with something fresh that would also scream Southern Italy but it wasn\u2019t to be.<\/p>\n

Tommy went off to make the cocktail: one part lemon syrup, one part Aperol, and two parts gin stirred with ice, poured into a large ice-filled wine glass, topped with prosecco, sprayed with lemon and orange oil from freshly cut peels, and garnished with basil.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The very Italian chandelier in the main room of our rental in Matera<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For the pizza, I stirred Bomba Calabrese into the tomato puree to evenly disperse the heat.\u00a0 I rolled out the crust, topped it with the sauce, pizza cheese (pasta filata) and a small amount of Pecorino.\u00a0 Thinly sliced onions were the closest I was going to come to a vegetable so those got added.\u00a0 When the pizza came out of the oven, I topped it with small bits of scombro for my best attempt at a delicate freshness.\u00a0 I avoided the anchovies as being too strong and the pickled pepperoncini as being to acidic.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Tommy putting the finishing touches on our cocktails just as the pizza came out of the oven<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Although Tommy and I didn\u2019t win, Chef John held up a slice of the pizza to display, describing it as a perfectly baked pizza (smile).\u00a0 Many of the students came up to Tommy and told him that they could have drunk our cocktail \u201call night.\u201d<\/p>\n

When the contest was over, a few of the students baked pies that were shared but these still didn\u2019t satisfy everyone\u2019s hunger.\u00a0 So, while Agelos set about making a dirty vodka martini for Frank, with the dirty part being a few drops of Bomba Calabrese oil and a few drops of rosemary-infused extra virgin olive oil floating on top, Chef Juan and Ryan set about making a kilo of spaghetti con aglio e olio.\u00a0 It went so fast that a second kilo followed immediately behind!<\/p>\n

\"\"
A street scene in Matera<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When the evening was over, a few of us ended up in Agelos\u2019 suite drinking and talking until 3 AM.\u00a0 Agelos was still raring to go but the rest of us were anxious to get some sleep.<\/p>\n

The next morning, I had breakfast with the relatives while Frank slept.\u00a0 Not only was he time-shifted by 8 hours, he hadn\u2019t slept for 40 hours before our 3 AM curfew!<\/p>\n

\"\"
Looking out over chimneys from Piazza Duomo in Matera<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Mid-morning we headed to Soverato Dolci for coffee and pastries before driving to Serra San Bruno in the mountains.\u00a0 The museum was closed so we headed back down the mountain to \u201cil mare\u201d (the sea) where it was warmer.\u00a0 We had a very nice lunch at La Cabana restaurant on the beach (literally) in Pietragrande, the beach town below the school.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Another view of Matera<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a few hours of down time we went to Al Fondaco for dinner.\u00a0 Al Fondaco serves superbly prepared Calabrian food.\u00a0 We ordered wine and antipasto to start since the server said that the antipasto was \u201cabondante\u201d (abundant).\u00a0 It sure was.\u00a0 Over the course of an hour we got plate after bowl after platter of food.\u00a0 We did manage to order a few plates of pasta after the antipasto (and a second liter of wine) but anything more was unthinkable, except, of course espresso and an amaro.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The first of about 18 plates of food that comprise the antipasto course at Al Fondaco<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We went to bed happy and full.\u00a0 We also woke up happy and full!<\/p>\n

After a leisurely breakfast on Sunday the 17th we drove to Soverato and walked the lungomare (walkway along the sea); what Italians would call la passagiata.\u00a0 Since it was Sunday, lots of folks were doing the same.\u00a0 We had lunch at a small restaurant in Soverato followed by pastry and coffee at Soverato Dolci.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Along the lungomare in Soverato (left to right) myself, Massimo, Great Aunt Fidalma, Francesca, Frank<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We drove to Lamezia and had an unremarkable drive through the old part of town before heading to the airport and saying goodbye to Zia Fidalma, Massimo and Francesca.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Rolled and stuffed eggplant at Al Fondaco<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There were a few of us at the school for dinner.\u00a0 Chef John had prepared an amazing dinner of ricotta gnocchi with spicy sausage in tomato sauce followed by a shredded cabbage salad which was followed by beautifully saut\u00e9ed pork medallions with a rich sauce (I\u2019m ashamed to say I don\u2019t remember what the vegetable was!).\u00a0 For dessert we had a caramelized ricotta cheesecake with rum-soaked raisins.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Chef John’s ricotta gnocchi and spicy sausage<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After breakfast the next morning, Frank and I set off for our adventure in Matera, an adventure that started in the servants\u2019 quarters of a palazzo in Piazza Duomo.\u00a0 Before that, however, we had some really good sandwiches at an AutoGrill on the Autostrada.\u00a0 The quality of the food in Italy is amazing.\u00a0 Here we were, essentially at a place to grab a quick bite at a highway rest stop and the sandwiches were memorable!\u00a0 The gas station attendant also ran a small shop selling Calabrian food products.\u00a0 Seasonal and regional are BIG concepts in Italian food.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Chef John’s caramelized ricotta cheesecake with rum-soaked raisins<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.\u00a0 It has a long (and at times disturbing) history.\u00a0 I won\u2019t try to recap Matera\u2019s history here since that is better covered by travel books and websites.\u00a0 But I will say that it is worth every minute of a long visit. \u00a0I\u2019m sorry that we\u2019re only here for two days.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Yes, those are bones holding up a rain gutter on a house in Matera!<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While here, we\u2019ve been trying to eat local food.\u00a0 The area is famous for peppers that are fried until crispy and dark in spots.\u00a0 Interestingly, they are not at all spicy but they are very flavorful.\u00a0 As Chef John says, \u201cIf it doesn\u2019t taste yummy it\u2019s worthless.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

February 20, 2019 I am sitting in the servants\u2019 quarters as I write this.\u00a0 The servants\u2019 quarters of a palazzo in Matera.\u00a0 The Palazzo Gattini, in Piazza Duomo, is now a luxury hotel.\u00a0 Around the corner and down some stairs are the former servants\u2019 quarters, now turned into short-term rentals.\u00a0 Ours is in Dimora Santa … Continue reading Calabria Dispatch #11: If It Doesn\u2019t Taste Yummy It\u2019s Worthless<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6428,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","wpupg_custom_link":[],"wpupg_custom_link_behaviour":["default"],"wpupg_custom_link_nofollow":[],"wpupg_custom_image":[],"wpupg_custom_image_id":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[363],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6423","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-people-and-places"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6423","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6423"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6423\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7469,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6423\/revisions\/7469"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6428"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6423"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6423"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6423"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}