{"id":6498,"date":"2019-03-03T09:00:42","date_gmt":"2019-03-03T16:00:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/villasentieri.com\/?p=6498"},"modified":"2019-12-23T17:50:31","modified_gmt":"2019-12-24T00:50:31","slug":"calabria-dispatch-13","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/2019\/03\/03\/calabria-dispatch-13\/","title":{"rendered":"Calabria Dispatch #13: Italy is Blessed With Poor Distribution"},"content":{"rendered":"

March 3, 2019<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Sommelier Week ended on February 26th with a MORNING TASTING!\u00a0 Got that?\u00a0 Alcohol for breakfast!<\/p>\n

\"\"
The partial aftermath of Sommelier Week. There were more empties than these…and that doesn’t count the table wine with dinner!<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

To be sure, one reads lots about wine experts swishing and spitting when tasting wine, and I suspect they do much of the time.\u00a0 I\u2019ve always found that a bit curious though.\u00a0 Granted, without swishing and spitting the accuracy and reliability of the tasting would decrease as the event went on.\u00a0 Nonetheless, there is a whole sensory experience that happens when you actually SWALLOW the wine that cannot be achieved by swishing and spitting.\u00a0 At least that\u2019s been my experience.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Orlando’s coffee helped me get through Sommelier Week. After having two double espressos each morning started affecting my stomach (coupled with the other stuff I ate) I switched to cappuccino hoping the milk in the double espresso would be soothing. During Sommelier Week, Orlando started decorating my cappuccino with chocolate syrup.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I was pleased then, when on the first day of our Sommelier Week, Chef Mark McDonald suggested that we actually swallow the wine, at least once for each wine tasted.\u00a0 I can truthfully report that everyone swallowed every time.\u00a0 There was no swishing and spitting among members of our group.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Maria and Anna, our dishwashers, put up with messes like this, if not worse, non-stop in addition to cleaning up the various kitchens and kitchen equipment.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The MORNING TASTING started with a very small pour of each of two different vintages of a Lebanese white wine.\u00a0 The vintages were 2003 and 2001.\u00a0 Each wine could still age for another 10 years.\u00a0 That is amazing for white wine!\u00a0 And, when you consider everything Lebanon has been through it just nothing short of miraculous that wines like this are still produced.<\/p>\n

\"\"
We tasted two vintages of this truly amazing white wine from Lebanon.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We had a quick taste of a 1997 Riesling before moving onto beer.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Part of a brunch the chefs made for us: Eggs Benedict on Homemade English Muffins accompanied by Home Fries.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Think about it.\u00a0 Beer is made from grain and yeast.\u00a0 It\u2019s really just liquid bread, right?\u00a0 Not so bad for breakfast after all!<\/p>\n

\"\"
A few of the beers we tasted on the last day of Sommelier Week.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

OK, OK, so I exaggerated a bit.\u00a0 We spent a few hours in the kitchen preparing for the evening meal before starting our wine and beer tasting with Chef Mark.<\/p>\n

\"\"
My pasta alla chitarra set out to dry.<\/span><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

That evening was a new experience.\u00a0 We\u2019ve had pizza night where each of us made pizza of our choice in the wood-fired oven to share with everyone.\u00a0 We had a menu execution for which, as a group, we had to create and execute a multi-course menu.\u00a0 We had a pizza and cocktail night where, in teams of two, we had to devise a cocktail and a pizza that paired together and execute both in ten minutes!<\/p>\n

\"\"
Mariana’s wonderful Blood Orange Mimosas.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On the last day of Sommelier Week however, we each had to make a first course for 18 people.\u00a0 These got executed in succession.\u00a0 One student made a soup, another risotto.\u00a0 The rest of us made pasta\u2026starting by making the pasta by hand that morning.<\/p>\n

\"\"
My fanciful porcelain espresso cups made to resemble the plastic throw-away espresso cups seen in Italy.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the lead-up to Pasta Night, each of us had to submit three different options for what we wanted to make.\u00a0 The Chefs then got to decide which we would make.\u00a0 We were informed of our choices in the morning and had to set about preparing everything for that evening\u2019s dinner.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The lineup of pasta dishes for Pasta Night. We were not told of the order of service until immediately before we had to go into the kitchen.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I got to make Pasta Alla Chitarra with Mussels in Tomato Sauce with Pepperoncino.\u00a0 My other options were Linguine with Clams in White Sauce and Lasagna Bolognese.\u00a0 I have become enamored of the chitarra (see below).<\/p>\n

\"\"
Buildings in Tropea on a bluff overlooking the sea. The views are spectacular!<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Chitarra is the Italian word for guitar.\u00a0 It is also the word for a device that is used to cut pasta using guitar strings.\u00a0 It fascinates me far more than cutting pasta using a pasta machine.\u00a0 Apparently, the chitarra cuts the edges of the pasta more sharply causing a different reaction with the sauce than is obtained using a pasta machine (Italians are truly food obsessed and discussions like this are not uncommon, even among non-chefs).<\/p>\n

\"\"
Making pasta alla chitarra for my Pasta Night dish of pasta with mussels and spicy tomato sauce.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After each of us made and served our Primo Piatto (First Course, which can be pasta, risotto, or soup), the chefs each created a pasta.\u00a0 Each chef, that is, except Chef John (who runs the school) and Chef Chris who was planning on making a Barley Risotto (Orzotto) which got shelved until Saturday dinner due to time constraints.\u00a0 Chef Juan’s Chocolate Dessert Lasagna is the headline photo for this post.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Ryan’s ode to Rome his home city: a Colosseum-shaped raviolo filled with egg yolk and cream topped with cacio e pepe foam (which was beginning to melt).<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It was a lazy few days after Pasta Night.\u00a0 We had two days off followed by a slow Friday followed by another day off.<\/p>\n

\"\"
My Pasta alla Chitarra with Mussels and Spicy Tomato Sauce.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On Wednesday, the day after Pasta Night, eight of us hired a driver to take us to Pizzo and Tropea.\u00a0 They are wonderful towns on the west coast of Calabria.\u00a0 Both are also largely closed this time of year.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A view into the (closed) grotto church in Pizzo.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pizzo is known for its Grotto Church, carved into the rock.\u00a0 It was closed, though we did manage to snap a few pictures through the metal bars before leaving.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Ryan’s raviolo after being cut open. There’s also a graphic video that I don’t think should be posted on a “G-rated” blog.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We stopped for gelato across the street where the proprietor offered to call the manager of the church to see if he would open for the Americans.\u00a0 Oh, if we had only come two days later when he had different hours it would have been possible.\u00a0 (Possible only in the sense that the official schedule said the hours were longer starting March 1st, not necessarily that the official schedule would be adhered to [see below].)<\/p>\n

\"\"
The town of Pizzo where we had lunch outdoors in the piazza. Note, this is not the piazza it is the main street that has been partially taken over by restaurants. The piazza is to the left of the gray car in the foreground.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After gelato, we met our driver who, before taking us to Tropea, asked us if we wanted to stop at the castle in Pizzo, telling us that it was open.\u00a0 We agreed.\u00a0 The castle, however, was not open even though the signage indicated it should have been open (see above).\u00a0 The benefit, though, was that the castle, unlike the church, was near the piazza, which we otherwise might have missed, and where we had a wonderful al fresco lunch before heading to Tropea.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The castle in Pizzo, which was also closed, despite the sign that said it would be open.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I had fileja (a local pasta not unlike strozzapreti, but thicker) with a sauce of \u2018nduja and tomato.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A view to the sea through a stone tunnel in Tropea.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tropea was also, largely, closed.\u00a0 There is a small Alimentari (food shop) that several members of our group had been to on a prior visit but it was closed when we arrived.\u00a0 Since most businesses in Calabria (except restaurants) close from 1 to 4 (or 5) it wasn\u2019t clear whether the shop was closed for the season or for the afternoon.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The Alimentari in Tropea where I bought ‘nduja and pepperoncino.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lucky for us, the Alimentari was just closed for the afternoon.\u00a0 After padding around Tropea, and finding a crumbing building perched on a bluff overlooking the sea that needed to be purchased and rehabbed, we discovered that the shop was open.\u00a0 I bought two \u2018nduja salami and a big package of pepperoncino.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A building in Tropea in need of rehab. The opposite side of the building has commanding views over the sea from its perch on a bluff.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our luck did not hold out with the restaurant where we wanted to have dinner so, around 5 PM we headed back to the school where we had dinner prepared by Chef Chris.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A small beautifully rehabbed building in Tropea. See the photo above and imagine how beautiful that Palazzo would be after being rehabbed.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Thursday was another free day.\u00a0 The chefs made us an amazing brunch.\u00a0 Mariana started us off with Blood Orange Mimosas made from freshly squeezed blood oranges.\u00a0 This was followed by Eggs Benedict on Homemade English Muffins accompanied by Home Fries.\u00a0 Next came Waffles with Market-Fresh Strawberries and Whipped Cream.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Waffles with whipped cream and strawberries rounded out Saturday’s brunch extravaganza.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I opted for a 2 hour and 45 minute walk in the afternoon which included exploration of the hypermarket, Paoletti, in the nearby seaside town of Montepaone Lido.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A cake slicer found (but not [yet] bought) in the Paoletti hypermarket in Montapaone Lido. I can probably get this on Amazon but if there’s room in my suitcase it’s flying home with me.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>Friday morning was a trip to the market followed by a free afternoon.\u00a0 After the market in Soverato, we went to a restaurant supply store in Catanzaro Lido and then to the Guglielmo store.<\/p>\n
\"\"
Sitting on my kitchen table is part of my shopping haul from Friday: a press for fruit and vegetables…oh, and that octopus carpaccio!<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Guglielmo is a local coffee roaster, the fourth largest in Italy.\u00a0 Between the restaurant supply store and the Guglielmo store, I made quite a shopping haul. \u00a0Frank had taken my previous purchases (2 VERY LARGE saut\u00e9 pans for pasta, 5 cookbooks, silicone molds, plastic drying racks for pasta and cheese, and four jars of spicy condiments) back to the States leaving me with more free space in my suitcase.<\/p>\n

\"\"
I know it doesn’t look like much but the coating on this Italian butcher’s twine means I can basket weave an entire cut of meat without the twine fraying.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On Friday I bought a chitarra for pasta (see above); a press for fruits and vegetables (but also used at the school for octopus and terrines); a specially coated twine used for cured meats (much better than the butcher\u2019s twine available in the States); plastic inserts for canning jars to keep the contents submerged under brine, vinegar, or oil; and porcelain espresso cups made to look like the flimsy disposable plastic cups used throughout Italy.<\/p>\n

\"\"
My newly acquired chitarra for pasta. I will incorporate it into the cooking classes that I’m going to start teaching after I return to the States.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Saturday was another free day.\u00a0 I was in the kitchen, however, experimenting on a focaccia recipe and making a batch of Carne Adovada thanks to Frank who brought New Mexico red chile on his recent visit.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Plastic inserts for canning jars to keep the solid contents submerged below the liquid.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Whenever we discuss the high quality of raw ingredients available in Italy, Chef John often points to the poor distribution system which means that most food is hyper-local.\u00a0 International foods are in very short supply but if you can content yourself with Italian food, the hyper-local nature of the food supply means that meals are based on super-good and largely local ingredients. \u00a0Seasonality is a way of life.\u00a0 Italians eat what is in season.\u00a0 Not only is it better, it is cheaper.\u00a0 For example artichokes are now 10 for \u20ac4, less than half of what they were just a couple of weeks ago.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Tropea is known for its onions. I don’t know if we can grow onions in Santa Fe but we’re sure going to try. I wonder how they’ll compare to ones grown in Tropea.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As Chef John says, \u201cItaly is blessed with poor distribution.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"
A view of the sea in Tropea. The church on top of the hill was also closed.<\/span><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

March 3, 2019 Sommelier Week ended on February 26th with a MORNING TASTING!\u00a0 Got that?\u00a0 Alcohol for breakfast! To be sure, one reads lots about wine experts swishing and spitting when tasting wine, and I suspect they do much of the time.\u00a0 I\u2019ve always found that a bit curious though.\u00a0 Granted, without swishing and spitting … Continue reading Calabria Dispatch #13: Italy is Blessed With Poor Distribution<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6541,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","wpupg_custom_link":[],"wpupg_custom_link_behaviour":["default"],"wpupg_custom_link_nofollow":[],"wpupg_custom_image":[],"wpupg_custom_image_id":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[363],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6498","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-people-and-places"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6498","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6498"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6498\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7472,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6498\/revisions\/7472"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6541"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6498"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6498"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/villasentieri.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6498"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}