Caponata: A Taste of Sunny Sicily

January 22, 2020

The origins of both caponata and its name are unknown but that doesn’t keep some “authorities” from making definitive statements about both its origins and its name.  Other authors are more cautious about how they approach the topic.  There are many theories.  There are perhaps more theories about the origins of the dish and its name than there are versions of caponata itself, and that’s saying a lot.

Leaving the skin on the eggplant improves the texture of the caponata.

What we do know is that caponata, as we now know it, is Sicilian though there are traditional Neapolitan versions as well.


Join our mailing list and you’ll never miss a recipe again!


At its most basic caponata is a vegetable dish (though some versions include fish) with eggplant typically being the predominant ingredient (though there are other versions, such as one with artichokes) in a lightly sweet and sour sauce that usually contains some tomato product (fresh tomatoes or tomato sauce of some sort) and capers.

Beyond the basics, caponata has numerous traditional regional variations from different areas of Sicily.  There are also the endless variations introduced by individual cooks.

Onions are a common addition to caponata.

One could add or subtract celery, sweet peppers, zucchini, olives, pine nuts, almonds, and raisins (to name a few).

The eggplant can be fried, sautéed, or steamed (but almost always with the skin on).

Caponata can be served on a slice of toasted bread (crostino), as (part of) an antipasto, as a side dish (contorno), or as a main dish (secondo).  Though not traditional, I like tossing it with pasta.

Capers are in virtually every traditional version of caponata. Some authorities suggest the name “caponata” may be related to the word “caper.”

I prefer caponata that is neither aggressively sweet nor sour and, while the vegetables should not be mushy, I don’t want to hear a crunch when I bite down.


Follow us on your social media platform of choice

           


If I were drowning in home-grown tomatoes during harvest season, I’d probably work on perfecting a version that uses fresh tomatoes.  Since that’s not the case, my version uses tomato sauce.  The advantage is that I can make it year-round as the necessary vegetables are always available and of good quality.

Though it should not be frozen, caponata can be canned.  In fact, one of the demonstrations that I did for students at the Italian Culinary Institute this past September was how to can caponata.

Sweet peppers are traditional in some versions of caponata.

Unlike Italy, where the best eggplants and peppers are available only “in season” that’s not true in the United States.  Rather than canning a large batch of caponata, I just make it whenever I want some.

I hope you enjoy this version of caponata.

Turbinado or Demerara sugars are good substitutes for Italian “cane sugar” (zucchero di canna).

If you want to get more into the fray about the origins of caponata or its name, or the different versions, you can look here, here, here, here, here, or here.

Print Recipe
Caponata: A Taste of Sunny Sicily
There is a link to the recipe for Basic Tomato Sauce in the Notes section below. Any simple tomato sauce, or even tomato puree, could be substituted. If vegetable broth is not available water can be used. To my American readers, I apologize for the metric measures. You can convert to American measures by using the dropdown menu below. Turbinado and Demerara sugars are most similar to the “cane sugar” used in Italy. American light brown sugar would work in this recipe since the quantity is small. You can use either vinegar-packed or salt-packed capers.
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 45 minutes
Servings
cups
Ingredients
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 45 minutes
Servings
cups
Ingredients
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Instructions
  1. Sauté the peppers and onions in olive oil with a pinch of salt until the onions become translucent.
  2. Add the eggplant and sauté until most, but not all, of the eggplant has become translucent.
  3. Add the vegetable stock and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook until just tender, 5-10 minutes.
  4. Remove cover. Quickly evaporate any remaining liquid.
  5. Add sugar and vinegar. Cook over moderately high heat until almost dry.
  6. Add the capers and pine nuts.
  7. Add the tomato sauce. Simmer briefly to blend flavors, 5-10 minutes.
  8. Adjust salt and pepper while cooking.
  9. Refrigerate.
  10. Bring to room temperature for serving.
Recipe Notes

The recipe for Basic Tomato Sauce can be found here.

Copyright © 2020 by Villa Sentieri, LLC. All rights reserved.

Share this Recipe

Pollo alla Romana (Chicken with Sweet Peppers)

January 15, 2020

I will forever remember Ferragosto as the day the music died.

Ferragosto is celebrated on the fifteenth of August throughout Italy.  Originating during the Roman Empire, apparently in 18 BCE by Emperor Augustus, Ferragosto was originally held on August 1st.  Ultimately, the Catholic Church moved the date to August 15th to coincide with the Assumption, a “holy day of obligation,” thus imposing a secular holiday on a religious holy day.

Ferragosto is a day to feast.  It is also the day that the late-night revelry in the piazza of Bagni di Lucca comes to an end.


Join our mailing list and you’ll never miss a recipe again!


Those of you who have been following my blog for a while know that I spent the month of August 2019 in Tuscany cooking with Great Aunt Fidalma.

Cutting zucchini with Great Aunt Fidalma in her kitchen in Benabbio.

I rented a charming little apartment overlooking the piazza in Bagni di Lucca, a town near the village of Benabbio where Aunt Fidalma lives.

The piazza becomes the locus of loud music (70’s disco, karaoke, Italian pop) late into the night (or early into the morning depending on your perspective) on the weekends in August as well as during several August festival days.

A view from my terrace of the late-night revelry in the piazza of Bagni di Lucca.

The music precludes sleep.  Even if one could find ear plugs sufficient to drown out the sound, the building, and thus the bed, vibrate to the bass.

Ferragosto, August 15th, is the end of the late-night music.


Follow us on your social media platform of choice

           


Today, January 15th, marks five months since Ferragosto.  Pollo alla Romana (also known as pollo con i peperoni [chicken with sweet peppers]) is traditionally served on Ferragosto.  Given the five-month anniversary, today seems like an appropriate day to post the recipe.

As you might guess from the name, Pollo alla Romana is from the area around Rome.  It is a simple dish made with chicken, sweet peppers (traditionally red and yellow ones) and tomatoes.  It can be cooked in the morning and served at room temperature later in the day making it a perfect summer dish.

It has become one of my go-to dishes for entertaining when I don’t want a lot of last-minute fuss to distract from enjoying cocktails with my guests.  Made earlier in the day, the dish reheats beautifully in the time it takes to drink a bourbon.

Print Recipe
Pollo alla Romana (Chicken with Sweet Peppers)
Traditionally this dish would be made with a cut-up chicken. I prefer to use just thighs as I think they take well to braising, which breasts don’t. You can use cut-up chicken parts if you prefer. When a dish says something should be fall-apart tender, I take that literally. It’s the way I grew up eating chicken cooked by my Italian-American mother. That means, for me, the chicken should braise in the liquid for at least 90 minutes if you’re close to sea level and longer if you're at a higher elevation. You can short-circuit that if you want but I think the texture of the dish will suffer.
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Course Mains, Poultry
Cuisine Italian
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 2 1/2 hours
Servings
people
Ingredients
Course Mains, Poultry
Cuisine Italian
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 2 1/2 hours
Servings
people
Ingredients
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Instructions
  1. Pass the can of tomatoes through a food mill to remove seeds and hard bits of tomato. Reserve the tomato puree.
  2. Slice the peppers into triangular pieces or thick strips.
  3. Using a large heavy-bottomed sauté pan, sauté the garlic in the olive oil over medium heat until medium brown. Discard the garlic.
  4. Sauté the chicken in the garlic-flavored oil over high heat, starting skin side down to render additional fat from the skin, flipping twice, until well browned. Remove and reserve chicken.
  5. Add the peppers to the oil and sauté briefly over high heat to put a light char on some of them. Remove and reserve peppers.
  6. Add the wine to the sauté pan, bring to a boil, and scrape up all the brown bits.
  7. After the wine evaporates, add the broth, tomato puree and oregano. Mix well.
  8. Add the chicken, skin side down, along with any accumulated juices. Season with salt and pepper.
  9. Simmer, partially covered, approximately 30 minutes (or, if you live at high altitude as I do, 60 minutes). Turn the chicken over. Remove and discard the skin (the skin adds lots of flavor as well as collagen to the sauce for a great mouth-feel so please use bone-in and skin-on thighs).
  10. Add the peppers and continue to braise, partially covered, for approximately another hour until the chicken is literally fall-apart tender. During cooking, taste and adjust salt, pepper, and oregano.
  11. Transfer the chicken and peppers to an oven-proof casserole.
  12. If the sauce is not thick, boil quickly to reduce it. Pour the sauce over the chicken.
  13. Sprinkle the top with Pecorino Romano cheese.
  14. Bake at 350°F to brown the top, approximately 15-20 minutes.
Recipe Notes

Copyright © 2020 by Villa Sentieri, LLC. All rights reserved.

Share this Recipe

Melanzane al Forno (Eggplant Baked with Parmesan Cheese)

January 4, 2020

Growing up I didn’t like eggplant.  I didn’t much care for zucchini, either.  Or kale.

Things are a whole lot different now.

As an adult, I basically haven’t met a vegetable I don’t like, though, naturally, I like some more than others.

As with zucchini, eggplants seem to defy the season.  They’re available year-round and the quality is consistent.  Just look for firm, shiny ones with no soft spots or wrinkled skin and you’re basically guaranteed of getting a good eggplant.

Eggplants on the vine (Photo: Joydeep / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0).

Eggplant is a versatile vegetable.  It can be braised, baked, sautéed, fried and steamed … and probably cooked by any other method you can think of.


Join our mailing list and you’ll never miss a recipe again!


Eggplant will sop up any flavor that you pair with it.  It will also sop up large amounts of oil so one needs to be cautious about frying large pieces of eggplant in abundant oil.  Thin slices of eggplant can be floured and fried to great advantage, however.

Years ago, eggplant could be bitter but that trait has basically been bred out of the modern varieties one commonly encounters.  The bitterness led cooks to salt and drain the eggplant to remove bitter juices.  While this is no longer strictly necessary for control of bitterness it is still a great technique to reduce moisture content which is useful for some preparations.

Eggplants at the market in Italy.

America’s Test Kitchen (the organization behind Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country) has developed a method for removing water from eggplant using the microwave.  I have lots of cooking equipment and have no qualms about using newer technology in place of older technology to simplify food prep.  However, I want the newer technology be a natural evolution from the older technology as a way to preserve (but improve) traditional food preparation.  For example, before food processors, one would “mush up” food as much as possible then put it through a sieve.  Food processors do a much better (and faster) job of “mushing,” sometimes to the point that the sieving step isn’t necessary.


Follow us on your social media platform of choice

           


To me, that’s evolutionary.  It’s a more efficient way of getting to the same outcome but staying true to the traditional method.  Blasting eggplant in the microwave in place of salting it is not.

Beautiful eggplants ready to be made into something yummy.

While I have great respect for the rigor of America’s Test Kitchen, some of their hacks and shortcuts really trouble me from the standpoint of maintaining and transmitting traditional foodways.  Using V-8 juice in minestrone in place of tomato is an example.

With salting, rather than microwaving, we’ll proceed to today’s recipe,  It’s a very straightforward baked eggplant with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.  Somehow it manages to be WAY more than the sum of its parts.  I urge you to try it, even if you think you don’t like eggplant.

Print Recipe
Melanzane al Forno (Eggplant Baked with Parmesan Cheese)
Eggplant can absorb huge quantities of oil. This method of cooking limits the amount of oil the eggplant absorbs, making it lighter. The eggplant finishes its cooking in the oven, which eliminates last minute frying just before serving dinner. Individual portions can be made by cutting the eggplant into rounds that fit inside of small ramekins.
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Course Sides, Vegetables
Cuisine Italian
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 1 hour
Passive Time 1 hour
Servings
people
Ingredients
Course Sides, Vegetables
Cuisine Italian
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 1 hour
Passive Time 1 hour
Servings
people
Ingredients
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Instructions
  1. Peel the eggplant and cut crosswise into rounds ½ inch thick.
  2. Liberally salt the eggplant slices on both slides and put them in a colander.
  3. Set a weight on top of the egglant (such as a plate with a heavy can on top) and allow to drain for one hour.
  4. Meanwhile, gently sauté the garlic in the olive oil on low heat until the garlic is golden brown.
  5. Remove the oil from the heat. Discard the garlic and reserve the oil.
  6. Rinse the eggplant. Blot dry.
  7. Butter an ovenproof serving dish (or individual ramekins if making individual portions).
  8. Coat the bottom of a large sauté pan with 1-2 tablespoons of the garlic-flavored oil. A non-stick pan works best but a well-seasoned ordinary sauté pan will work fine. When the oil is very hot add one layer of eggplant slices. Cook until nicely browned being careful not to burn the eggplant which will make it bitter.
  9. When browned on one side turn the eggplant slices over. You may need to drizzle a little oil into the pan to keep the eggplant from sticking. The eggplant should still be firm in the center. It will complete its cooking in the oven.
  10. When the second side is brown put the eggplant in a buttered ovenproof serving dish, preferably one with a cover.
  11. Lightly salt the eggplant. Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper to taste and some of the grated Parmigiano. Repeat layering eggplant, pepper and cheese until all the eggplant is used up.
  12. Finish with grated Parmigiano. Drizzle with the melted butter.
  13. Cover and bake at 350°F for approximately 30 minutes. Uncover and continue baking for 10-15 minutes to brown the top.
Recipe Notes

Copyright © 2020 by Villa Sentieri, LLC. All rights reserved.

Share this Recipe