Name: Nanacy Rajapakes's Sri Lankan Dhal
Prep time: 10 min
Cook time: 30 min
Yield: 6 people
Ingredients: 1 cup Mysore dhal; 1/3 small onion (finely chopped); 1 small long thin green chile (finely chopped); 3-4 curry leaves (if available); 1/2 inch stick cinnamon (broken); 1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander seeds; 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin seed; 1/8 teaspoon turmeric; 1/2 - 1 cup coconut milk (purchased or home-made); salt to taste

June 29, 2018

Who knew dhal could be so complicated?

I discovered dhal in college. This was mostly during my junior year which provided an amazing, non-stop culinary experience as I lived in the International Residence Project at the University of Pennsylvania.

Dhal refers both to the main ingredient and to the preparation. Let’s deal with the main ingredient for a bit.

I’ve typically thought of dhal as a synonym for the word “pulse” which, in common, everyday American English, we rarely use. A pulse is the dried seed of a legume. Think lentil, dried beans, chickpeas, and so forth.

So far so good.

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Usually, but not always, a dried legume only becomes dhal if it is split. So, split red lentils (used in this dish) would be dhal but the whole ones would not. In Indian cookery the word “gram” refers to the whole legume that, if split, would be “dhal.”

According to the Wikipedia entry on legumes, the “term ‘pulse,’ as used by the United Nations’ Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), is reserved for crops harvested solely for the dry seed. This excludes green beans and green peas, which are considered vegetable crops.” Peruse any Indian cookbook however, and you’ll see the term dhal applied to dried split peas just as readily as it is to lentils, which are only harvested to be used dried (unlike peas). So much for the distinction that the crop only be used for the dry seed.

I suppose one shouldn’t be surprised. The names of different foods vary from region to region and usage is not necessarily consistent.

**Split red lentils, referred to as Mysore dhal or a variant of the spelling**

While there might be disagreements, need I say confusion, about what constitutes dhal, the dried (and maybe split) legume, the preparation of the dish itself is pretty straightforward.

To turn dhal into dhal, you boil it with flavoring ingredients such as aromatics and herbs and spices. The resultant dish can have the consistency of porridge or soup or anything in between but it is clearly, and unmistakably, dhal.

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My initial introduction to dhal was Indian. Channa dhal, a smaller relative of the chickpea (called channa in Hindi) looks pretty much like yellow split peas, which, by the way, are a very good substitute for channa dhal. My introduction to dhal made from channa dhal (I know, it’s confusing) came initially from Maharaja, the first Indian restaurant in Philadelphia (circa 1972). The restaurant was actually owned by the aunt of someone with whom I now work. Small world. Someone who, by the way, actually asked ME for some Indian recipes!!!

The introduction to dhal deepened after I met Ray Hugh at the end of sophomore year when we were introduced as roommates-to-be in the International Residence Project for our junior year at Penn. We roomed together over the preceding summer. We both cooked. Ray is from Guyana and his cooking reflects the country’s ethnic heritage: Indian, Chinese, African and Amerindian.

Ray made channa dhal.

**Frank and I having a seafood-based meal with Nanacy Rajapakse (far right) in Sri Lanka, 2004**

When I actually got into the International Residence Project at the beginning of junior year and tasted Nanacy Rajapakse’s Sri Lankan cooking, I was hooked. It’s similar to Indian but actually more aromatic and possibly more delicately spiced, though often quite firey hot (which is a totally different characteristic from the non-chile herbs and spices that go into a dish). For dhal, Sri Lankans typically use the small split red lentils called Mysore or Masoor dhal. They cook up quickly. The final consistency is more like porridge than soup.

Over the coming months, I’m going to post a number of Sri Lankan dishes. If you’re culturally adventurous you might want to give them a try. At the end of the series you’ll be able to pull together an entire meal that would satisfy anyone from Sri Lanka!

Nanacy Rajapakes's Sri Lankan Dhal

You can use more or less coconut milk to taste. I suggest ½ to 1 cup for this amount of dhal. An alternate way to serve this is to omit the coconut milk but add enough water to make a thick coarse puree. Top with some thinly sliced onions and cracked red pepper that have been fried in a little ghee or oil until crispy. Canned coconut milk varies tremendously in quality. Look for a brand that has few (or no) ingredients other than coconut and water. My go-to brand is Aroy-D. See the Notes section below. Dhal can be made ahead and refrigerated, tightly covered. Reheat gently before serving.

Course

Beans, Nuts and Legumes, Sides

Cuisine

Sri Lankan

Prep Time

10 minutes

Cook Time

30 minutes

Passive Time

3 hours

Servings

people

Ingredients

1 cup Mysore dhal
1/3 small onion finely chopped
1 small long thin green chile finely chopped
3-4 curry leaves if available
1/2 inch stick cinnamon broken
1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander seeds
3/4 teaspoon ground cumin seed
1/8 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 - 1 cup coconut milk purchased or home-made
salt to taste