Salsa Friulana di Marisa (Marisa’s Friulan Tomato Sauce)

June 11, 2018

Ma’s spaghetti sauce.  That’s what my husband calls it.

That’s pretty similar to what most of us of Italian heritage who grew up in the United States called the sauce that our mothers (yes, it was almost always the mothers) made most frequently.

It isn’t as if there aren’t more pasta sauces than one can count.  It’s just that for everyone I know of Italian heritage, there’s one that stands out above the rest.

For my husband’s family, this is the one.


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It’s actually quite similar to Ivana’s sauce.  Ivana is married to my mother-in-law’s cousin Olvino.  Ivana grew up in Friuli but in a different town.  There are subtle differences in her sauce and my mother-in-law’s sauce, but if you read both recipes you’ll certainly see the similarities.

My mother-in-law doesn’t remember when she learned to make this sauce, or even if she learned from her mother or her aunt.  She does remember, however, that her father asked her how she could get married (she was engaged to my father-in-law) without knowing how to cook.

My mother- and father-in-law on their wedding day (apparently before she knew how to cook)

She got married, ultimately learned to cook, and then headed up the kitchen in Castleview, the restaurant that she and my father-in-law owned in Fox River Grove, Illinois.  The restaurant was named Castleview because it had a view of an adjacent…you guessed it…castle…well, sort of a castle.   For more information on the castle, you can look here.

The Bettendorf Castle in Fox River Grove, Illinois

By the time I came on the scene, it was difficult to catch more than a glimpse of the castle from the restaurant due to the growth of trees and other vegetation.

Another view of the Bettendorf Castle

My mother-in-law thought my version of her sauce was “pretty good.”  She did note that it was thicker than hers; probably because I cook it longer but also potentially due to a different brand of tomatoes.  If you want it thinner, cook it less or (my preference) just add more water or put a splash of pasta-cooking water in the bowl with the pasta and the sauce.  (Just between you and me, when I’m putting dinner on the table using my mother-in-law’s sauce, I usually boil it down a bit because it seems a little thin to me!)


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In a few weeks I’ll be posting a recipe for Friulan Risotto that incorporates this sauce.  Stay tuned.

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Salsa Friulana di Marisa (Marisa's Friulan Tomato Sauce)
The amount of water needed will vary based on how thick the tomato puree is, how much liquid evaporates during cooking, and how thick or thin you like your sauce. Feel free to add more water during cooking if the mixture is becoming too thick. If the sauce is too thin uncover near the end of cooking and increase the heat to cook off more water.
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Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 3 hours
Servings
quarts
Ingredients
Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 3 hours
Servings
quarts
Ingredients
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
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Instructions
  1. Finely chop the parsley, carrots, celery, onion, and garlic in food processor.
  2. There should be a bit of texture to the mixture, not a puree. Reserve.
  3. Puree the crushed tomatoes in the food processor.
  4. Rinse the cans out with some of the water. Add the water to the pureed tomatoes. Reserve.
  5. Sauté the beef in the olive oil on high heat until no pink remains.
  6. Add the chopped vegetables.
  7. Sauté on high heat until all the liquid evaporates and then continue to sauté until the mixture darkens slightly and smells cooked.
  8. Add the wine and continue to cook until the wine has evaporated.
  9. Add the allspice, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Stir well.
  10. Add the tomato paste and sauté until it begins to smell sweet, approximately 5 minutes at medium-high heat.
  11. Meanwhile, rinse tomato paste can out with some of the water and add it to the pureed tomatoes.
  12. Add pureed tomatoes, bay leaf, oregano, basil and remaining water.
  13. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, partially covered for about 2 ½ hours, stirring every 20 minutes.
  14. After about an hour of cooking, begin to taste and adjust seasoning.
  15. Serve with the pasta of your choice.
Recipe Notes

Copyright © 2018 by Villa Sentieri, LLC. All rights reserved.

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Guyanese Barbecue Sauce

June 6, 2018

In a prior blog post, I talked about Jamaican New Sugar, also known as Wet Sugar.  New Sugar is difficult to obtain outside of Jamaica and even in Jamaica it is becoming harder to get.

Just as New Sugar relates to Jamaica, Demerara Brown sugar relates to Guyana.  Demerara Brown sugar is much easier to find, however.

The typical brown sugars available in the United States are made from refined white sugar with the addition of molasses.

New sugar, Demerara Brown sugar, and Turbinado sugar all represent stages in sugar refining.  Rather than adding molasses back into white sugar, it hasn’t been completely refined out of any of these sugars.


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Of all of these, the one that I’ve used the most is Demerara Brown.  Even within this very distinct category, there are differences in refinement and moisture content.  Some Demerara Brown sugars are darker than others, though I’ve never seen a “grade” attached to these differences.  The Demerara Brown sugar that I used to buy in Guyana always seemed to have more moisture in it than that which is available in American markets.

I’ve found several sugars that are good substitutes for Demerara Brown sugar.  One came from Ecuador and, admittedly, isn’t much easier to source than Demerara Brown sugar.

The other is a brown sugar made for the Korean market that I found in an Asian grocery store.

Korean and Ecuadorean brown sugars are good substitutes for Demerara Brown Sugar

I prefer both of them over Turbinado sugar as substitutes for Demerara Brown sugar as they are both less refined than Turbinado and have more of the flavor of true Demerara Brown.  For this barbecue sauce, however, since sugar is not a big component (as it might be in baked goods, for example) the ordinary American style brown sugar from the supermarket would work just fine.


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I’ve been making this barbecue sauce since I was in college when I purchased a cookbook on a trip to Guyana.  (I might have mentioned this before, but I have thousands upon thousands of cookbooks.  I’ve actually run out of shelf space for them and have them stacked in boxes which is far from ideal.  I’m trying to figure out where to install additional library shelving so I can get the books out of the boxes and make them accessible.)

Turbinado sugar, which is lighter in color than Demerara Brown sugar, is not a good substitute for the flavor

What’s Cooking in Guyana is representative of a style of cookbook published decades ago in countries around the world, well at least in Anglophone countries with which I am most familiar!  It is based on recipes from Home Economics professionals and contains traditional recipes, some (modified) international recipes as well as a quantity of what I call “made up” recipes.  That is, recipes with no particular cultural history to them that were developed by professional cooks.  Admittedly, some of these recipes enter the cannon of locally prepared dishes and, if they survive long enough, can become “traditional.”

Never once in all my time in Guyana was I served anything that contained barbecue sauce.  Barbecue, and anything resembling barbecue, just wasn’t part of the country’s culinary heritage.  So, the presence of barbecue sauce in this Guyanese cookbook is curious.  If you look at the ingredients, you’ll notice a resemblance to the ketchup-based barbecue sauces of the United States but a closer look at the ingredients will demonstrate the use of a number of specifically West Indian ingredients.

The first Guyanese cookbook I ever purchased

I classify this recipe as a “made up” one.  And a very good one at that!  It is my go-to barbecue sauce (when I’m not being lazy and reaching for a bottle of the purchased stuff, which, admittedly, I do from time to time.)  Many years ago, I  changed the proportions of ingredients in this barbecue sauce to suit my taste.  I feel that it is now truly mine.

In the coming weeks, I’m going to post my recipe for barbecue rub and then after that my recipe for smoked chicken thighs that makes use of both the rub and the barbecue sauce.  Stay tuned!

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Guyanese Barbecue Sauce
Wiri wiri peppers are nearly impossible to obtain outside of Guyana. Habanero or Scotch Bonnet peppers can be substituted. Demerara brown sugar can be difficult to find. Any coarse grained brown sugar can be used, such as Turbinado. Regular American-style brown sugar would work too. Lea and Perrins Steak Sauce can be substituted for the Pickapeppa Sauce. This recipe is modified from “what’s cooking in Guyana” published in 1973 by the Guyanese Ministry of National Development & Agriculture and the Carnegie School of Home Economics.
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Prep Time 15 minutes
Cook Time 15 minutes
Servings
cups
Ingredients
Prep Time 15 minutes
Cook Time 15 minutes
Servings
cups
Ingredients
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Instructions
  1. Combine all ingredients in a small non-reactive saucepan.
  2. Bring to a boil over medium heat.
  3. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes, stirring frequently.
  4. Thin with a few tablespoons of water, if necessary.
  5. The sauce may be refrigerated for up to one week.
Recipe Notes

Despite its name, Pickapeppa sauce is not spicy.  It is very similar to a good steak sauce, such as A-1

Wiri wiri peppers are almost impossible to obtain, and the small amount needed does not justify a strenuous search.  Habanero or Scotch Bonnet peppers, to taste, can be substituted.

Copyright © 2018 by Villa Sentieri, LLC. All rights reserved.

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