Caponata: A Taste of Sunny Sicily

January 22, 2020

The origins of both caponata and its name are unknown but that doesn’t keep some “authorities” from making definitive statements about both its origins and its name.  Other authors are more cautious about how they approach the topic.  There are many theories.  There are perhaps more theories about the origins of the dish and its name than there are versions of caponata itself, and that’s saying a lot.

Leaving the skin on the eggplant improves the texture of the caponata.

What we do know is that caponata, as we now know it, is Sicilian though there are traditional Neapolitan versions as well.


Join our mailing list and you’ll never miss a recipe again!


At its most basic caponata is a vegetable dish (though some versions include fish) with eggplant typically being the predominant ingredient (though there are other versions, such as one with artichokes) in a lightly sweet and sour sauce that usually contains some tomato product (fresh tomatoes or tomato sauce of some sort) and capers.

Beyond the basics, caponata has numerous traditional regional variations from different areas of Sicily.  There are also the endless variations introduced by individual cooks.

Onions are a common addition to caponata.

One could add or subtract celery, sweet peppers, zucchini, olives, pine nuts, almonds, and raisins (to name a few).

The eggplant can be fried, sautéed, or steamed (but almost always with the skin on).

Caponata can be served on a slice of toasted bread (crostino), as (part of) an antipasto, as a side dish (contorno), or as a main dish (secondo).  Though not traditional, I like tossing it with pasta.

Capers are in virtually every traditional version of caponata. Some authorities suggest the name “caponata” may be related to the word “caper.”

I prefer caponata that is neither aggressively sweet nor sour and, while the vegetables should not be mushy, I don’t want to hear a crunch when I bite down.


Follow us on your social media platform of choice

           


If I were drowning in home-grown tomatoes during harvest season, I’d probably work on perfecting a version that uses fresh tomatoes.  Since that’s not the case, my version uses tomato sauce.  The advantage is that I can make it year-round as the necessary vegetables are always available and of good quality.

Though it should not be frozen, caponata can be canned.  In fact, one of the demonstrations that I did for students at the Italian Culinary Institute this past September was how to can caponata.

Sweet peppers are traditional in some versions of caponata.

Unlike Italy, where the best eggplants and peppers are available only “in season” that’s not true in the United States.  Rather than canning a large batch of caponata, I just make it whenever I want some.

I hope you enjoy this version of caponata.

Turbinado or Demerara sugars are good substitutes for Italian “cane sugar” (zucchero di canna).

If you want to get more into the fray about the origins of caponata or its name, or the different versions, you can look here, here, here, here, here, or here.

Print Recipe
Caponata: A Taste of Sunny Sicily
There is a link to the recipe for Basic Tomato Sauce in the Notes section below. Any simple tomato sauce, or even tomato puree, could be substituted. If vegetable broth is not available water can be used. To my American readers, I apologize for the metric measures. You can convert to American measures by using the dropdown menu below. Turbinado and Demerara sugars are most similar to the “cane sugar” used in Italy. American light brown sugar would work in this recipe since the quantity is small. You can use either vinegar-packed or salt-packed capers.
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 45 minutes
Servings
cups
Ingredients
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 45 minutes
Servings
cups
Ingredients
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Instructions
  1. Sauté the peppers and onions in olive oil with a pinch of salt until the onions become translucent.
  2. Add the eggplant and sauté until most, but not all, of the eggplant has become translucent.
  3. Add the vegetable stock and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook until just tender, 5-10 minutes.
  4. Remove cover. Quickly evaporate any remaining liquid.
  5. Add sugar and vinegar. Cook over moderately high heat until almost dry.
  6. Add the capers and pine nuts.
  7. Add the tomato sauce. Simmer briefly to blend flavors, 5-10 minutes.
  8. Adjust salt and pepper while cooking.
  9. Refrigerate.
  10. Bring to room temperature for serving.
Recipe Notes

The recipe for Basic Tomato Sauce can be found here.

Copyright © 2020 by Villa Sentieri, LLC. All rights reserved.

Share this Recipe

Lupara

May 29, 2019

A Lupara is an 8mm sawn-off shotgun favored by La Cosa Nostra.

It’s also the name of a pasta dish.

Lupara, the shotgun not the pasta. [Licensed from Bluedog, without changes].
Interestingly, if you search for lupara recipes online you’ll only find a few and you’ll be hard-pressed to discover much commonality among the recipes.  Some are spicy.  Some are not.  Some have sweet peppers.  Some do not.  Some have tomatoes.  Some do not.  And most of them will be made with spaghetti.

I learned to make lupara at the Italian Culinary Institute.  It was among the first pasta dishes demonstrated during the early days of the three-month course.  Made with short, cut pasta, like rigatoni, this rendition pays tribute to the shotgun for which it is named.

Lupara, the pasta not the shotgun, as prepared at the Italian Culinary Institute.

Join our mailing list and you’ll never miss a recipe again!

This dish makes use of a Basic Tomato Sauce, just tomatoes and a few aromatics cooked briefly.  You can make the tomato sauce in large batches and freeze it or you can make it as needed.  Although the sauce can be used on its own in some dishes, it is deliberately not aggressively seasoned.  This allows it to be used in a variety of preparations, with some final additional flavoring, without the sense that the same sauce is being used over and over.

I know this seems a little out of order, but I will publish the recipe for the Basic Tomato Sauce next week  For my first blog post since returning from Italy, I wanted to feature a dish that grabbed my attention.  This one did.  It’s got a great story and a great flavor.  Basic Tomato Sauce is good but it isn’t captivating (unlike a pasta dish named after the “Mob’s” favorite weapon!).  Basic Tomato Sause is meant to play a supporting role in most situations and that’s just not the type of recipe that I wanted to start with.

Lupara on the stove at the Italian Culinary Institute.

This version of Lupara is intended to be spicy but spicy means different things to different people.  There are two ways to build spice into this pasta.  You can use one or both of them.  The first method is to add dried, ground red pepper (peperoncino piccante in polvere, in Italian) during the final assembly of the pasta.  The other is to add thinly sliced fresh hot pepper (peperoncino fresco) when sautéing the sausage.  Getting authentic Italian peperoncino, powdered or fresh, is difficult in the States.  You can substitute Cayenne pepper for the ground one and a variety of long, red (always red!) chile, such as Thai or Cayenne, for the fresh.

Follow us on your social media platform of choice
         

This recipe also calls for fresh porcini mushrooms.  These can be a challenge to find.  Feel free to substitute thinly sliced portobello mushrooms.  Though the flavor won’t be exactly the same, the dish will still be yummy!  If you are lucky enough to find fresh porcini, I suggest buying a heap, thinly slicing them, and freezing them.  They can be used in all sorts of cooked dishes, especially Trifulata which will hit the blog in the near future…as soon as I can find fresh porcini!! (You might notice portobello mushrooms in the pictures.)

This recipe requires a small amount of sausage.  It’s not a major player though it does add a nice meaty background note to the sauce.  Pick a good quality Italian-style sausage, sweet or hot.  I think that sausage with fennel seed adds a nice flavor but that’s a matter of personal taste.

Buon appetito!!

Print Recipe
Lupara
A lupara is an 8-gauge sawn-off shotgun associated with La Cosa Nostra (the “Mob”). Rigatoni resemble the barrel of a lupara. Adjust heat level to your taste. If you can’t find Italian powdered peperoncino piccante, substitute Cayenne pepper. For a different type of heat, add some thinly-sliced hot red chile when sautéing the sausage, instead of, or in addition to, the powered chile. If you can’t find fresh porcini, substitute portobello mushrooms. It is really important to use a very good quality Italian rigatoni, preferably an artisanal variety that is thicker than the usual boxed rigatoni to get the most benefit out of sautéing the pasta. If you want to make half as much pasta, freeze half the sauce. The recipe for Basic Tomato Sauce will be posted next week.
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 30 minutes
Servings
people
Ingredients
Sauce
Assembly
For serving
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 30 minutes
Servings
people
Ingredients
Sauce
Assembly
For serving
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Instructions
Sauce
  1. Using a heavy-bottomed pot, sauté the sausage in the olive oil until colored.
  2. Add the porcini, butter, and fresh peperoncini, if desired, and sauté 5-7 minutes. During this time, the sausage should brown much more and the mushrooms should give up much of their liquid and take on some color.
  3. Add the wine and evaporate completely over high heat.
  4. Add the broth, partially cover, and simmer until completely evaporated.
  5. Add the Basic Tomato Sauce, basil, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer about 10 minutes. Reserve.
Assembly
  1. Bring three quarts of heavily salted water (according to the Italians, it should taste like the sea) to a boil.
  2. Meanwhile, sauté the garlic in the extra-virgin olive oil until light brown. Drain and reserve the oil.
  3. Cook the rigatoni just until it no longer has a crunch in the center but is still far from done.
  4. While the pasta is cooking, put the sauce in a large sauté pan and bring to a simmer along with peperoncino piccate to taste.
  5. Drain the rigatoni, saving at least one quart of the pasta-cooking liquid.
  6. Add the rigatoni to the sauce and increase the heat to medium to medium-high. Add pasta-cooking liquid, a ladle at a time, stirring the pasta frequently to finish cooking.
  7. After adding a ladle or two of the pasta-cooking liquid, add the cream. Continue adding pasta-cooking liquid as needed until the pasta is just al dente and coated with a thick sauce.
  8. Off the heat, mix in the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, cream, and the reserved garlic oil. You may need to thin with a little more pasta-cooking liquid as the cheese will thicken and emulsify the sauce.
  9. Divide the pasta among serving bowls. Garnish each with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and sprinklings of Pecorino Romano cheese and fresh basil chiffonade.
Recipe Notes

Here's my recipe for Basic Tomato Sauce.

Copyright © 2019 by Villa Sentieri, LLC. All rights reserved.

Share this Recipe